A Picture Guide to Fix the Trail NP Trigger

 This is my basic guide to fixing the TNP's greatest flaw. Keep in mind I did it a few months ago, so I can't provide a full step by step.

If you remove the back of the sling from the stock all this goes much more smoothly.

 Were going to start in the trigger housing. 

Remove the bolt located in the back of the trigger guard. 

 Next remove the two bolts that hold the front of the stock on.
 

You should now have all three bolts removed that hold the stock on the TNP.

Now we begin refining that God awful trigger.

 This piece may fall out of your stock, its not a big deal, just keep up with it. If you look inside your stock just behind the trigger opening its pretty obvious where it goes. 

This is .15mm music wire, you can get it at Hobby Lobby for about $1; get some! We're going to make it into a new trigger spring.

These are jeweler's round pliers, also at Hobby Lobby ca. $6; buy a pair!

 Close up of one pair so you know what to look for. These are your best friend. After a little practice you'll be rolling out trigger springs like its not even funny. 

 For those of you with diamond stones and brass balls, you can greatly improve the feel of the trigger by polishing the sears. I won't go into this but if you need help just ask.

 You see that little E-clip? Im betting you know what comes next... Just be careful not to loose it!

 E-clip is removed!

 About now is a good time to break the barrel, it will make the coming steps much easier.

 Now flip your rifle over and make sure the horn is clear of that "button" you see in the center of the trigger group as pictured. 

If it is push the rod from the e-clip side and the button headed rod will pop right out.

With your center rod removed your trigger pieces will come out freely. They should look like this. 

These are the pieces we are putting back in. The old trigger spring has been replaced by one we made with the .15 music wire and the round pliers. You can also see a washer has been added as well as a 3x10mm socket head bolt. The socket head bolt will replace the 3mm button head bolt that was originally in the back of the trigger group bellow the spring. You can also tell that I polished the contact surfaces of my trigger and my washer. Truth be told I also did all the sears as well. If you choose to do this just be careful. Your going for a smooth surface. It doesn't require the removal of much material, only a few thousands of an inch. This is also a really good time to apply a light coat of oil to everything. 

This is a close up of the old spring vs. the new one notice the size and shape differences. 

Note that the hole for the retention rod in the old spring is much larger than in the new one. Try to get this fit as tight as possible. I experimented for hours on spring design an found this was worked best for me. You may find you like something different. Give a few things a try.  

 Another spring pic. In this picture you can clearly see the hole I added at the back for the new bolt.

 This is the spring with bolt and retention rod all put together. As mentioned previously, note how tight the fit of the rod and the spring are. It actually required me to bend (not deform!) the spring slightly in order to slide the retention rod in. (I just did this to show you what it looks like, you can't actually put the spring in like this.)

 This is a picture of the complete trigger all oiled up and ready to go in. I have just put it all together. The spring is happily inside the trigger with the retention rod (middle hole) holding it in place. Note also that the guide has been place in the trigger at this point (far left hole). 

 In this picture I have slid the trigger in and tightened down the new bolt. The settings on the bolt will be personal preference, it gives you an adjustable second stage. You can barely see the button end rod sticking out the bottom. You can also see a rather large gap at the top of the trigger housing. This is where our washer comes in.

You can see the washer sticking out in the center of the picture as I line it up. I stoned my washer on my bench stones. I did the same thing with all the contact surfaces in the trigger, sears, sides, etc... If you choose to do this just be careful and go little bits at the time. Your looking for a perfect fit and a few thousands of an inch make a big difference.  

This is the washer put in place and the e-clip is now on the button headed rod. Notice how tight everything is now. You do want a little room for play though, too tight and the trigger will be worse than before! 

 

Everything is all back together now. You can see the 3x10 socket head behind the trigger. As stated this gives you an adjustable second stage; play with it and find what you like best.

Enjoy your new trigger. It really does make the rifle much much better! I have no experience with the GTX triggers Charliethetuna makes but I hear they are fantastic. I actually used his trigger design to come up with my own solution. As always if you have any questions just ask.

Stay safe and keep it classy.